Tee It Up & Tip It Back
Dublin, IRELAND — This past August, the American Sports Fans Association - AMFANS - sponsored a tidy 5-day golf trip to Ireland. For anyone planning their own adventure to the Emerald Isle, here are a few highlights worth noting.
THE COURSES
We played our first round at The Island Golf Club, a classic links course set in a rugged terrain and nestled between the highest sand dunes along the east coast, only 30 minutes from Dublin city center. The course was wild and beautiful, with dunes that swallowed errant shots whole and tucked-away greens. We fought the breeze, lost more than a few balls, and loved every second of it.
We then played Portmarnock Golf Club, Golf Digest's #3-ranked course in Ireland and rumored site for the first British Open Championship to be played in Ireland, in 2031. With a pedigree that includes 19 Irish Opens, a 1991 Walker Cup victory by American including Phil Mickelson and David Duval, and legends like Arnold Palmer and Sam Snead in its history, Portmarnock is golf tradition at its finest. The design is classic, pure, and deceptively demanding — every shot mattered, especially on its subtle greens. Walking the fairways alongside Dublin Bay, it was easy to see why the world’s best have competed here for over a century. Afterward, we settled into the historic clubhouse, enjoyed an excellent lunch, and soaked in the history all around us.
We played our final round at The European Club, where the beauty of Ireland’s east coast meets world-class links golf. Nestled amidst the towering dunes of Brittas Bay and overlooking the Irish Sea, The European Club offers an exceptional golfing experience just one hour south of Dublin — a sanctuary of nature and sporting challenge. Crafted by renowned designer Pat Ruddy, the acclaimed championship links has drawn some of the world’s greatest players, with Tiger Woods, Rory McIlroy and Padraig Harrington among those to have tested their games here. Every hole delivers a combination of strategy and panoramic coastal vistas. The club has come under new ownership recently and although the clubhouse was modest, the course more than compensated - dramatic, fair and unforgettable. Golf Digest's #10-ranked course in Ireland.
Although we loved The Island, the courses we favored most were Portmarnock and the European Club. Gorgeous settings, challenging but fair courses, rich in history.
Pro tip - always hire a forecaddie for your group at any of these golf courses. Beyond helping find balls and steering you away from trouble, our three very different caddies all brought local knowledge, humor and a warmth that elevated every round.
DINING AND DRINKING
We visited 15-20 pubs and restaurants over the course of the week, and a few became instant favorites:
The Long Haul Pub - Our favorite, which we visited 3-4 times. Cozy, authentic, full of locals, and blissfully TV-free.
Darkey Kelly's Pub & Restaurant - Famous for traditional Irish music and great food in Dublin’s oldest quarter. Don’t miss the beef and Guinness stew.
Hawksmoor Steakhouse - Award-winning, with a focus on sustainable seafood and Irish beef. One of the best steaks this author has ever had, served in a gorgeous setting.
Bambino Pizza - Perfect late night New York-style slices after a long day of golf and a few pints. Not fancy, just delicious.
SIGHTSEEING
With two non-golf days, we explored some Dublin must-sees:
Guiness Storehouse Tour - A self-guided tour through Guinness Brewery's history and stout-making process. Ends with a stop at the Gravity Bar, perched atop the seventh floor of the Storehouse. Enjoy a pint while soaking in breathtaking 360° views of Dublin’s skyline. There's also a truly amazing gift shop that Guinness fans shouldn't miss.
Teeling Whiskey Distillery Tour - Dublin’s first new distillery in 125 years, opened in 2015. A modern landmark in a historic neighborhood. Learn about distillation and taste Teeling's whiskeys. Other distillers to consider with tours in Dublin include Jamesons, Roe & Co., Pearse Lyons and Dublin Liberties.
St. Patrick's Cathedral - Founded in 1191 and primarily constructed between 1220 and 1260, with roots reaching back to the 5th century. Site of St. Patrick's baptism of Irish converts, it has served as Ireland's National Cathedral for the Church of Ireland since the English Reformation. Stunning grounds and interior.
LOGISTICS
Our trip was expertly organized by Hidden Links. They took perfect care of all hotel reservations, airport and course transportation, and tee times. There are many reliable operators in Ireland and Scotland, but we can’t recommend Hidden Links enough.
We stayed at the Brooks Hotel, a cozy, boutique gem tucked into the heart of the city which exceeded all expectations. Large, comfortable rooms, attentive staff, great buffet breakfast, and a perfect location.
(we are not compensated in any way for our references to the courses, any of the establishments or Hidden Links)
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